Inkle Weaving
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Structure of Inkle Weaving




The Loom











In weaving, there are two basic structures to the weave. The most common in everyday life is the group of weaves that fall into the category of the traditional plain weaves (like the tabby and twill) where you see both the weft and the warp in the finished product. The other category is the group called the bound weaves. Inkle and card weaving fall into the category of bound weaves. In bound weaves, there are two types. One type, known as weft-faced, is evidenced by the fact that the weft part of the weave is the only part that shows. The warp is bound into the weft and is only visible as fringe at the beginning and ending of the woven piece. Typical contemporary examples of this type of weave are the "Indian Blanket" and the rag rug. The design in this type of weaving is created only by the weft threads. Inkle woven bands fall into the other category of bound weaves known as warp-faced. In this type of weave, the weft is pulled tight to bind the warp together, encasing the weft in the warp threads, making the weft thread hidden (except at the selvedges). In straight warp-faced weaving, the design is determined only by the warp threads. The weft is visible only at the edges where it leaves the outside edge of the fabric to return at the next row. Because of this, most warp-faced weaving uses a border that runs the length of the woven piece that is the same color as the weft, thus effectively "hiding" the weft.

© 2000-2005Tracy DeGarmo